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Estudios sociales. Revista de alimentación contemporánea y desarrollo regional

On-line version ISSN 2395-9169

Abstract

SANDOVAL-ARAGON, Sergio Lorenzo. The mezcal: enfant terrible of Mexico. Sociological study on culture and commercialization of mezcal in a globalized context. Estud. soc. Rev. aliment. contemp. desarro. reg. [online]. 2020, vol.30, n.55, e20938.  Epub Dec 06, 2021. ISSN 2395-9169.  https://doi.org/10.24836/es.v30i55.938.

Objective:

Intends to present to the Spanish-speaking reader, particularly from Mexico, the most complete sociological research that currently exists on the subject. It is considered relevant because it accurately describes the dialectic between, on the one hand, the global economic processes and, on the other, its bases and effects in local areas, basically the creation of relations of subordination of producers, which threaten their cultural identity and its economy, with a negative ecological impact.

Methodology:

This is a broad sociological study that includes historical, anthropological and economic aspects. However, given the nature of its object, the study contemplates knowledge of other disciplines, such as agronomy, the food industry and marketing. In addition to extensive bibliographic and documentary research, it is based on ethnographic methods, particularly participant observation and interviewing, techniques that he implemented in local settings in Mexico, as in other countries.

Results:

Describe the origins and history of mezcal production and consumption and the profound meaning it has for many rural communities in Mexico. It explains the local effects of mezcal's entry as a commercial product in the global sphere, particularly pointing out the contradictions and perverse effects of this process, such as the destabilization of local social structures and ecological damage, by virtue of the demand logic of international markets It also highlights the legal, commercial and even political defense that the producers themselves have had to carry out to safeguard the production of authentic mezcal in the national and international spheres, given the risk of adulteration for commercial purposes for the benefit of transnational companies.

Limitations:

The study itself is quite complete, however, it could be extended with a more thorough and updated study of the relationship between mezcal and the tequila industry. Thus, it would be very interesting to study how, recently, the tequila industry has begun to mimic that of mezcal, particularly with the launch of brands of "crystalline" tequilas that evidently try to emulate the "authentic" mezcal. Perhaps the main limitation of the book is the same fact of being published in French, as an English version would make it more accessible to a wider audience.

Conclusions:

Domingo García Garza, offers us an exciting story about the origin of mezcal in the “deep Mexico” and its even mystical meaning, its revaluation through foreign perception, its insertion in transnational markets, the practically resistance situation in that their artisanal producers have committed themselves, the political and legal struggle to safeguard their character as cultural heritage and a question about the social, economic and ecological future of the communities in which it has been produced since ancient times. But in addition, the reading of Le mezcal: enfant terrible du Mexique is a masterful example of the implementation of the fundamental principles of sociological research in its most general sense.

Keywords : contemporary Food; mezcal; cultural identity; globalization; international legitimation; producers.

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