Abstract

DE SUREMAIN, Charles-Édouard  and  MATTA, Raúl. <<Manger tradition>> ou la fabrication d'un patrimoine alimentaire inégal (Lima, Pérou). Trace (Méx. DF) [online]. 2013, n.64, pp.44-54. ISSN 2007-2392.

In Latin America, heritage process goes together with a vast movement of globalization of natural and cultural resources. As a public policy, heritagization is also seen as a vector for local development. Strongly covered in medias, food heritage, be it tangible or intangible, reveals cleavages of diverse nature: social and cultural, but also political, economic and territorial. The promotion and staging of food heritage -standardized and heterogeneous, singular and local- questions its production beyond the issues of safeguard and inventory. Drawing on three examples taken from Peru (Lima), we will show how the proximity and distance from an "ideal" food time-space contributes to the construction of an unequal heritage. How do chefs and restaurant owners convene "tradition" and "the traditional"? Does the wide array of these terms occult unequal social relationships? This article aims to interrogate the taken for granted opposition between institutionalized heritages (labeled by ministries of culture and UNESCO) and local heritages, in a context where intangible dimensions of food are increasingly relevant.

Keywords : food heritagization; natural and cultural resources; tradition; inequality; Peru.

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