Objective:

To observe processes of change in the cultural control of gastronomic elements: ingredients, methods of preparation, culinary knowledge, consumption, and use; in five traditional recipes from San Pedro and San Pablo Teposcolula, Oaxaca, Mexico.

Methodology:

The research is qualitative, ethnographic, and exploratory; Participant observation and interviews were carried out with traditional cooks; With the information obtained, content analysis and triangulation with the reviewed literature were carried out.

Results:

Cultural control is presented as a mosaic of possibilities that coexist and satisfy the material and symbolic needs of both community members and visitors; The diversity of meanings is materialized in different versions of the same dish.

Limitations:

More research and impact on tourists and government actors is needed.

Conclusions:

Showing that there is not a single and homogeneous culture in the community gastronomic sphere, allows us to counteract processes of culinary colonialism, recognize the areas in which traditional cooks retain control of the dishes, and make visible the preparations that, even when they are not offered, Tourism plays a vital role in the community.

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