Resumen

CERVANTES ESCOTO, Fernando et al. Genealogy and artisanal trajectory of the criollo cheese in cocoyam leaf of Hidalgo, Mexico. Rev. mex. de cienc. pecuarias [online]. 2021, vol.12, n.2, pp.503-522.  Epub 15-Nov-2021. ISSN 2448-6698.  https://doi.org/10.22319/rmcp.v12i2.5509.

The objective was to provide qualitative information on criollo cheese in cocoyam leaf, in order to contribute to disseminate its presence and make its valorization and its permanence as a local gastronomic heritage possible. In methodology, a structured survey was applied to 18 cheese producers, covering all the people engaged in this activity. Focused semi-structured interviews were also carried out with key persons, such as the oldest people who are still producing it today, as well as the marketers. Also utilized were the methodological tools of oral history, the genealogical method and the technological trajectory. The manufacture of this cheese was found to involve a high degree of craftsmanship, and the expertise associated with its production is the same as that was used by the ancestors of the producers, with minimal modifications in the process. It can contribute to its diffusion and valorization as a local gastronomic heritage by mentioning to the consumer that this cheese, in spite of the time, has preserved a highly artisanal character. Therefore, the peculiarities it has acquired from the physical and cultural environment are expressed in a characteristic flavor, a higher fat content, and different coloration and consistency. All of this, together with its packaging in cocoyam leaves, gives it different organoleptic characteristics from those of commercial cheeses and contributes to generate a typical cheese with attributes valued in the region where it is produced.

Palabras llave : Criollo cheese; Oral history; Genealogical method; Technological trajectory; Craftsmanship; Typicality.

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